Somalia

How Somalia feels in autumn (September–November)

Mogadishu’s waterfront and the coastal towns stay humid through these months, but inland the landscape changes noticeably as the short rains — the Dayr — begin to fall. Where the rain reaches, dusty tracks become firmer and the plains take brief patches of green; where it doesn’t, the dry season continues with the same heat and wind anyone travelling there will notice. Markets already stocked after the long dry season adjust: vegetables and immediate supplies reappear in greater quantities from October onward.

Getting around Somalia in practice

Distances are long and timetables are informal. Regular paved roads link the largest ports and cities, but away from those arteries you should plan for slow journeys on gravel or sand; a trip that looks short on a map can take a full day. Scheduled flights connect Mogadishu with a few regional hubs, and many people rely on domestic charters or buses that leave when they’re full. Cash is dominant in everyday transactions; Somali Shillings circulate alongside US dollars in cities, and mobile-money services run by local telecoms handle most urban payments.

Daily manners and what to expect on day one

People greet each other with firm handshakes and a few warm questions about family; in many places the right hand is used for giving and receiving. Dress modestly — women commonly wear headscarves in urban areas and styles vary across regions — and observe that Friday midday will feel different: many shops close for the congregational prayer and street life pauses. Accepting tea or a small plate of halwa when offered is a sign of good manners; declining politely is possible, but refusing without a reason can surprise hosts.

Eating in Somalia as an experience

Meals follow routines more than menus: breakfast and late-afternoon tea are social moments, while lunch and dinner centre on rice (bariis), stewed meat and flatbreads or simple sandwiches. Coffee here is often spiced and served sweet; seafood features along the coast. If you want to sample local habits, sit where locals eat, be prepared to share food from common dishes, and try halwa after a meal — it’s offered at celebrations and ordinary visits alike.